The first seven of the following files provide amazingly detailed information on Sturmey-Archer hubs, from the earliest models to the present day. They were compiled by English engineer and hub gear enthusiast, the late Jim Gill. Although some of the material was originally published by Sturmey-Archer, the vast majority is Jim’s own work and was first published here.
Also provided is the late John Fairbrother’s simpler approach to fixed-wheel conversions. John was an engineer and bicycle restorer based in Hampshire, England.
Newly added in summer 2021 are various useful and interesting technical papers by eminent hub gear specialist David White. Information from David on type A and FN axles has also been added to the axle charts.
The files are in PDF format, making them zoomable and easily printable. Please note that where a drawing is said to be “actual size”, this only applies to the original hard copy. The size you see will depend on your screen size, the PDF zoom setting you use or your printer settings.
Epicyclic Gears – some theoretical considerations
Engineer and hub gear enthusiast Jim Gill explains how various hub gears work. Includes zoomable diagrams.
Sturmey-Archer Hubs – reference tables
Zoomable dimensioned drawings and tables of pawls, drivers, axle keys, pinion pins, gear teeth, ballcups, hub shell dimensions, indicators and more.
Sturmey-Archer axle charts
Zoomable dimensioned drawings of axles for Sturmey-Archer hubs. At the end of this article is information from David White on the type A and FN axles, added in summer 2021.
Sturmey-Archer Hubs – cone charts
Zoomable dimensioned drawings of cones for Sturmey-Archer hubs.
Sturmey-Archer Hubs – spring charts
Zoomable dimensioned drawings of springs for Sturmey-Archer hubs.
Sturmey-Archer Hubs – triggers
Zoomable dimensioned drawings of triggers for Sturmey-Archer hubs. Includes how to convert triggers for use with fixed-wheel hubs.
Jim Gill’s fixed hub conversions
Jim Gill’s compilation of how to convert a 3-speed to 2-speed fixed-wheel and how to convert 4-speeds to 3-speed fixed.
Jim Fairbrother’s fixed hub conversions
Modifications to Sturmey-Archer hub gears to produce fixed wheel gears
Engineer John Fairbrother outlines another approach to fixed-wheel conversions.
Fixed hub trigger conversion
Modifications to Sturmey-Archer triggers for use with fixed wheel gears
More good stuff from Jim Gill.
Variations in Sturmey-Archer K hub drivers and right-hand ball cups
The first of a series of illustrated articles by eminent Sturmey-Archer enthusiast David White.
Early K-type right-hand ball cup
Photos and comment by David White.
Ratchet plates for Sturmey-Archer triggers
David White adds to information from the late Jim Gill.
Making a replacement indicator for a Sturmey-Archer ASC 3-speed fixed hub
Referring to Jim Gill’s indicator sheet, David White shows how to make a replacement for this rare component.
How to make a replacement indicator coupling for AM, AR or AC hubs
David White shows how to make a replacement indicator coupling for these three hubs with through axle bore.
Keeper for Sturmey-Archer Dynohub magnets
David White provides all the dimensions you need to make your own keeper. No good for zoos or brothers but works a treat with Dynohubs.
Sturmey-Archer shell sizes 1930s to 1970s (and perhaps longer)
David White’s annotated drawing with the key dimensions.
Clamping tool for holding Sturmey-Archer hub shells
Don’t squash your hub – build yourself a proper clamping tool by using David White’s illustrated instructions.
The Sturmey-Archer ‘wavy’ emblem on hubs
David White investigates the evolution and variations of this classic logo.
Variations in pre-WW2 AW hub logos and stampings
Detailed research by David White into the stampings and logos on early AW 3-speed hubs.
13 thoughts on “Esoteric info for Sturmey freaks”
Brilliant web site!! Many thanks for having all this info available 🙂
I am pretty new to the vintage bike scene, but have quickly developed a passion and appreciation for the amazing quality these old bikes, and especially the SA gear, are.
After restoring 1 or 2 dozen vintage bikes with the more common SA hubs I have stumbled across one that I can find absolutely zero information on.
I searched the Heritage web site, tried Sheldonbrown, and now hoping you can assist.
The hub is branded “AT-8”. It has come from a ’30s tandem bike built by “Eiger” in Switzerland. 3 speed with 110mm drum brake. It has just come out of 40 years in storage and rides a treat straight up … zero rebuild, just a squirt of oil :-). I am thinking 1938 and the “T” for tandem. Chrome also immaculate … Typical old SA quality.
Keen to find any info on this hub. Happy to share some photos via email.
Thanks again!! Cheers. Mark
Many thanks for your kind words. I’m glad you find the site useful. Yes, you are quite right – 8 stands for 1938, the year in which your hub was made, and T stands for tandem. The AT was operated by a cable-cum-rod system, and there was an all-cable version called the ATC. Apart from the larger drum brake, they were almost identical to AB and ABC respectively. The only significant difference was that they had nickel-chromium sun and planet pinions for extra strength. These differences and the number of hubs produced were so small that S-A don’t seem to have considered it necessary to produce separate service drawings and maintenance instructions. I hope this helps.
All makes sense …. thanks Tony. Greatly appreciate the response. Cheers. M
[…] Today ten new articles by David White have been added, all accessible from here. […]
Dear Mr. Hadland, I am the proud owner of a 1960’s Raleigh Suprbe It has 4 speed Dynohub. I have found plenty of info on the 3 speed, 5 speed and 6 speed dynohubs, but little on the 4 speed. Can you help please?
I have learned much from your articles and blogs, but I am at a loss with the 4speed, so I really need your help.
Thanks for your kind words. The instructions are all accessible from this page: https://hadland.wordpress.com/2012/07/02/how-to-repair-old-sturmey-archer-hubs/
There are general disassembly and reassembly instructions for S-A hubs of that era but also these specific instructions for the FG: https://hadland.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/sainddismant.pdf and https://hadland.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/safg.pdf
I hope this helps.
Amazing site, somewhat overwhelming! I wish to fit an AW to a mountain bike frame (135mm dropout). What hub/axle length do I need? I expect the info’s in there somewhere, I know not where, however. Sorry to be a nuisance. Thanks, Steven.
Thanks for the kind words and no need to apologise at all. The AW is no longer made (you can download the currect catalogue here: http://www.sturmey-archer.com/pdf/Sturmey-Archer_2016-2017_Catalogue.pdf). However, it was listed as recently as 2014-15 and, in the catalogue for that year, two axle lengths were offered. However, the longest is only 175mm, which is for an over-locknut dimension of 127mm, a long way off the 135mm you seek.
You might nonethless like to have a look at the F30 hub in the current catalogue. That is a 3-speed made specifically for 135mm dropouts and has an integral freehub to take a standard 8- or 9-speed derailleur sprocket cluster, thus giving 24 or 27 speeds. You could always omit the sprockets and use the F30 as a simple 3-speed, should you wish.
Hope that helps!
Thanks for sharing this incredible knoledge! Information on this hubs is not easy to find and more in this specific form!
Many thanks, Karl – I’m glad you found it useful.
Dear MR Hadland, Thank you sincerely for a fantastic resource, you have made my day. Especially considering the information is a technical insight to compliment your worthy book,I have recently purchased. Raleigh: Past and presence of an iconic bicycle brand. The only one in Waterstones. Lucky me, I salute you
Thanks very much, Gary – I’m delighted that you’ve found the material useful.
Cracking good blog, sir. I am absolutely over the moon about finding it! I live on an extraordinarily hilly island and i find the 3 speed hub the ideal solution for trips to and from the ferry dock. It also allows for a splendid tear drop shape of the chain which i find aesthetically appealing.